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Old 02-26-2019, 05:05 PM   #41
DethRokRyan
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A lot of the factory ammo for revolvers is unjacketed lead. Is that a bad idea for suppressors or just dirtier than jacketed, with total jacket being cleanest, at least as far as lead fouling goes?


Still waiting on my Form 4 to clear.
Just dirtier. 22lr is pretty much all unjacketed lead, too...

ETA: you may not want to use round nose lead bullets in the tube mag of a lever gun, though. The theory is that too pointy of a bullet could sit just right and cause the primer on the bullet in front of it to detonate if the gun is dropped or under heavy recoil.
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Old 02-26-2019, 05:35 PM   #42
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A lot of the factory ammo for revolvers is unjacketed lead. Is that a bad idea for suppressors or just dirtier than jacketed, with total jacket being cleanest, at least as far as lead fouling goes?


Still waiting on my Form 4 to clear.
If you have a mystic, no worries, just clean as required.
If you have a sealed aluminum can, I would use only jacketed/plated/poly coated.
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Old 02-26-2019, 08:22 PM   #43
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If you have a mystic, no worries, just clean as required.
If you have a sealed aluminum can, I would use only jacketed/plated/poly coated.

Scroll back up for the custom can. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure what Dave used for the monocore. I assume aluminum but I don't know.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:07 PM   #44
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Regardless, do the silicone oil treatment before shooting it. Makes it much easier to clean. Being you can't take the core off, it will be beneficial.
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Old 03-01-2019, 05:46 PM   #45
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Regardless, do the silicone oil treatment before shooting it. Makes it much easier to clean. Being you can't take the core off, it will be beneficial.

Pretend I have no idea of what you speak but am intrigued to learn more...




Noah at Liberty stated the core of my can is "...made of 303 SS, a standard strength steel with good corrosion and thermal cycling resistance due to its low carbon content."


.
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:03 PM   #46
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Pretend I have no idea of what you speak but am intrigued to learn more...




.

There was an article somewhere on the net about warming the baffles either in an old toaster oven, or in your case, with a heat gun, and submerging them in silicone oil. The author of the article used DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, which you can find at any auto parts store. I opted for a thicker silicone oil that I found on Amazon. It's about the viscosity of pancake syrup. Clean everything, warm it up, dunk in the oil, and let the excess drip off.


Here's my SWR Spectre after 1200 rounds. The shiny spots are where I touched it with a Q-Tip.




This is the oil I used.
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:28 PM   #47
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Were those 1200 rounds all on the same firearm? Pistol or rifle? CCI SV ammo?
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Old 03-01-2019, 08:40 PM   #48
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Were those 1200 rounds all on the same firearm? Pistol or rifle? CCI SV ammo?
Start reading at post #19.
https://nfatalk.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15935
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Old 03-02-2019, 10:11 PM   #49
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There was an article somewhere on the net about warming the baffles either in an old toaster oven, or in your case, with a heat gun, and submerging them in silicone oil. The author of the article used DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, which you can find at any auto parts store. I opted for a thicker silicone oil that I found on Amazon. It's about the viscosity of pancake syrup. Clean everything, warm it up, dunk in the oil, and let the excess drip off...

Thank you!


You just let it drip for a half-hour or so afterward? You don't wipe it off of anything?
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Old 03-02-2019, 10:18 PM   #50
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Thank you!


You just let it drip for a half-hour or so afterward? You don't wipe it off of anything?
I pulled them out and let it drip until the drops mostly stopped, a minute or two, then set them on a paper towel until I stacked them up and slid the tube over them. So there was a film of oil on them, but not enough to leak out the end caps once assembled.
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Old 03-04-2019, 08:58 PM   #51
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Seems reasonable! I've put some of that silicone oil on my Amazon wishlist for near-future purchase.
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